There is something about the ocean that draws us in. For some people, it is seeing the endless expanse of the horizon or imagining deep waters teeming with marine life. For others, it is the thrill of catching a wave and riding it toward shore. Whether body surfing, boogie boarding, traditional surfing, or even skimboarding, there are many ways to experience a wave’s impressive energy. Just walk down the beach on a typical summer day and there will be people of all ages enjoying the surf, some experiencing it for the first time. The key is to safely enjoy the swell without getting caught by surprise.
There are many stretches along Delaware’s Atlantic coast where the waves will break directly on shore. This is caused by a sloping shoreline that causes waves to break quickly instead of gradually. Swimmers are at greater risk of spinal injuries from the force of waves crashing on them, due to the energy of the waves being released in shallow water. Fortunately, following these tips will help to improve wave safety and fun at the Delaware shore!
Before you go into the ocean, assess local wave conditions. If you’re not sure whether hazards are present, check with the beach patrol or consult the Surf Zone Forecast. The National Weather Service issues this forecast to describe wave heights, wind speed and direction, tides, rip currents, visibility, and other conditions.
- Stay alert to changing weather, waves, and tides.
- Choose to swim and surf at guarded beaches. Delaware has exceptional lifeguards!
- Never turn your back on the ocean. Face oncoming waves if you wade into the surf.
- Teach children wave safety, and what to do if caught in a rip current.
- Keep arms in front of you while bodysurfing.
- Never dive into the water if you’re unsure of its depth.
- Exit the ocean in between waves.
What is an Undertow?
There is no special force that pulls people underwater in the surf zone. An undertow is often mistaken for a rip current or the backwash of water that flows seaward after a wave breaks. It can sometimes cause a person to lose their footing or make them susceptible to the next incoming wave.
What is a Rip Current?
Rip currents are fast-moving channels of water that flow away from shore. They can be as narrow as 10-20 feet in width. You can spot them by looking for discolored water, foam and seaward moving water, or breaks in the incoming wave pattern. If caught in a rip current and it pulls you away from shore, swim parallel to the shore until you are out of the current. Or stay calm and wave your arms to get a lifeguard’s attention.
Danielle is a certified climate change professional with Delaware Sea Grant (www.deseagrant.org). Delaware Sea Grant utilizes research, education, and extension work in support of resilient communities, economies, and coastal resources. Danielle provides technical assistance and outreach to communities on emergency preparedness and building resilience to weather and climate hazards. She is co-founder of the Resilient and Sustainable Communities League (RASCL – www.derascl.org) and loves hiking the Gordons Pond Trail in Cape Henlopen State Park.
