The Backyard is a culinary gem with an if-you-know-you-know appeal. Like Po’ Boys Creole Restaurant across Broadkill Road (Route 16) the restaurant is both a destination for tourists and a locals’ spot for residents.
But when owner Ami Rae opened The Backyard in 2013, she initially wanted to incorporate a market. She was inspired by Taste, a Virginia-based specialty food café and market that started in 1973 as a wine-and-cheese shop.
“You can order a sandwich,” explains Rae, who was raised in the Prime Hook area. “You can have them cater. You can get wine, cheese, crackers and dessert.”
When The Backyard opened, the restaurant took over the bulk of the space, and the market area was small.
The concept came back into play when Rae decided to take over the former Beaches Seafood location, also on Broadkill Road. The building originally housed Gilligan’s second location.
The building has two sections: a bar and dining room. Rae elected to turn the former into the market, which opened in late May. Last weekend, the dining room debuted.
Not surprisingly, chicken is the star of Birdhouse Rotisserie Kitchen & Market.
Admittedly, the broiler is common in Sussex County, which rules the roost in chicken processing. Rae, however, has sourced an organic “beautiful bird,” she says. It’s unlikely customers would find the same quality in a grocery store, she adds.
As is the case at The Backyard, the kitchen does not use seed oils, which some diners avoid because of concerns about processing and inflammation. Rae’s restaurants use beef tallow, avocado oil, olive oil and butter.
Customers can order a whole, half or quarter chicken with a choice of sauce, including lemon-herb jus or spicy-sweet bang-bang. Birdhouse also serves sandwiches and entrees, including a crispy chicken cutlet with white bean ragù made with tomatoes and mascarpone.
The restaurant’s wine list was curated by Sam Anderson of Ouro Wines, who has also worked with Heirloom.
The market specializes in what Rae calls the three Ps.
“We have pantry items, prepared foods, produce,” she explains.
The produce comes from Rays Produce and Flowers, which is also at The Brush Factory.
“I love what they’re doing,” Rae says. “They work with five different farms, and the space looks beautiful because of the produce.”
The restaurant side is starting with dinner only, although takeout from the kitchen will be available while the market is open, from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
The multifaceted Birdhouse gives customers multiple ways to use the space. They can sit down to dinner, pick up a chicken on the way home, or browse the market for produce and pantry items.
It’s the flexible neighborhood concept Rae once imagined – only this time, there is room to grow.
