At the beach, the natural inclination is to head east toward the boardwalk and resort-town restaurants. But Route 1, also known as Coastal Highway, is hardly a culinary dividing line. Plenty of establishments west of the coast’s main artery are worth the detour.
Some are longtime local favorites. Others reflect the growth and increasing diversity of the communities beyond the primary resort corridor. Together, they offer Cajun cooking, Brazilian barbecue, Austrian specialties, Latin American fare and even mead with barbecue.
Here are a few reasons to go west.
Route 16 / Milton
Po’ Boys Creole Restaurant attracts repeat visitors with chicken gumbo, crawfish étouffée, jambalaya, blackened catfish and overstuffed po’boys. The small, unassuming restaurant has a quiet following that extends well beyond Milton. Po’ Boys does not take reservations, so bring reading material in case it’s crowded.
Nearby, The Backyard has been a daytime favorite since 2013. Ami Rae’s cozy restaurant, complete with a fenced backyard, serves breakfast and lunch along with in-house baked goods. In May, Rae opened Birdhouse Rotisserie Kitchen & Market, which focuses on rotisserie and slow-roasted chicken, seasonal sides and prepared foods. The adjoining market stocks produce and pantry goods.
Route 9 / Lewes- Georgetown Highway
A few miles west of Five Points, the drinking scene takes an unexpected turn. Brimming Horn Meadery specializes in mead, the ancient alcoholic beverage made by fermenting honey.
The Milton tasting room, which has a Norse-inspired aesthetic, offers traditional meads, lighter session styles, ciders and fruit wines. A tasting flight is ideal for the curious.
BrandyLynn’s BBQ food truck is parked at the meadery several days a week, serving brisket, pulled pork, ribs, wings and other barbecue specialties. The smoky meats are good partners for mead. You won’t find that combination on Rehoboth Avenue.
Continue west on Route 9 to Georgetown. The county seat has long had a diverse population, and its restaurants reflect it. Jalapeño Restaurant on East Market Street draws on Mexican and Guatemalan cooking, with dishes such as pupusas, chile relleno, enchiladas and plantains.
Route 24 / Millsboro
The stretch of highway from Route 1 toward Millsboro has experienced explosive growth. One of the OGs, The Clubhouse at Baywood, overlooks the meticulously landscaped grounds of Baywood Greens. The restaurant serves steaks, seafood and American fare, and the gardens are as much a draw as what’s on the plate.
Kaisy’s Delights on Main Street in Millsboro, located in a former bank, demonstrates the area’s appetite for international cuisine. The specialty is Kaiserschmarrn, the fluffy, shredded Austrian pancake that gave the restaurant its name. Owner Thierry Langer grew up in France and has Austrian and Polish roots, and the menu reflects his love of European comfort food. Customers can also tuck into an American-style breakfast.
A few blocks away, Nossa Casa Brazilian Steakhouse brings the churrascaria tradition to downtown Millsboro. Created by two sisters from Minas Gerais, Brazil, the restaurant follows the traditional rodízio format. Gauchos circulate through the dining room, carving fire-roasted meats tableside.
Route 26 / Ocean View and Millville
To the south, Route 26 blazes a culinary path from Bethany Beach to Millville. The Café on 26 occupies a converted 1920s house in Ocean View that once belonged to Cecile Steele, a pioneer of the local broiler industry.
The year-round restaurant offers steaks, seafood and house-made desserts in a setting that feels more like dining in someone’s home than in a conventional beach restaurant.
Nearby, Ocean View Brewing Co. pours nationally recognized beers while giving its kitchen equal billing. The outdoor area is a destination on its own.
Good Earth Market & Organic Farm began as an organic market and grew into a restaurant, garden retreat, catering operation and event venue. Dining outside among the gardens can feel far removed from Bethany Beach, despite being only a few miles away.
One of the corridor’s newer arrivals is Surf Siren Kitchen + Bar in Millville. Owners Jennifer Behm-Lazzarini and Julio Lazzarini have appeared together and separately on multiple television cooking competitions.
Spanish, Caribbean and Latin influences distinguish the concept. Picture crudo, ceviche, empanadas, tacos and composed plates. In an area where seafood restaurants are plentiful, the approach gives diners a taste of something different.
Clearly, the beach isn’t going anywhere. But some of Sussex County’s most distinctive flavors are found by turning your back on it.
